Here's a tall, floor-to-ceiling bookcase with the versatility to serve a variety of purposes
9. Drill the dowel holes. Set up your MARK V for the horizontal boring mode. Drill 3/8" holes in the top and bottom edges of the long, 96" side pieces (Q & R). Each joint will have two dowels. Measure the spacing of these holes carefully so they will fit into the ends of the 3" wide bottom piece (T) and the 4" wide top piece (S). Make your holes slightly deeper than one-half the length of your 3/8" dowels to allow for glue escapement.
10. Match the dowel positions. Place two 3/8" dowel centers into the holes at the bottom edge of the left side piece (Q). Use a try square or combination square to line up the bottom piece (T) with the left side piece, then push the bottom piece (T) against the side piece (Q) and tap with a mallet to transfer the hole locations to the bottom piece (T). Repeat this process for the right side piece (R). Follow the same procedure for the top piece (S).
11. Glue up the outer frame. Glue the 3/8" dowels and edges of the outer frame pieces where they will join. Clamp them together and allow the glue to dry.
12. Finish the frame. Follow the same procedures you followed earlier. Finish all additional pieces similarly, just prior to assembling them.
13. Attach the face frame. Use small finishing nails (two inches long - 6 penny) to attach the outer face frame to the carcase. To avoid splitting the oak, it's a good idea to drill small pilot holes into the frame first.
14. Cut the shelf and divider edge moldings. Working with one of your 48" x 10" x 3/4" pieces of red oak, rip a sufficient quantity of 3/4" wide strips (off the full 48" length of your oak) to create solid wood edge moldings for the fronts of all shelves and vertical dividers, as well as the front and sides of the TV shelf.
15. Crosscut the edging to their appropriate lengths. Measure the lengths of these moldings after the outer frame has been attached to the carcase. Begin with the two full-width horizontal shelves (G & N). Next, cut the moldings for the vertical dividers (L,K & J) to fit between these shelves. Finally, cut the edge molding on the remaining shelves (C,D,E,F,H,I & M), keeping in mind that they will be attached using common butt joints as shown in the “Face Frame & Molding” illustration.
16. Attach the edge moldings. After finishing the moldings (except for their back or glued edges), attach them to all edges using glue and 2" finishing nails. NOTE: Don't forget to pre-drill nail pilot holes in your oak strips to prevent splitting. Use a nail set to recess the heads of all nails, then cover the holes with wood patch that's been mixed with matching stain.