Here's a tall, floor-to-ceiling bookcase with the versatility to serve a variety of purposes
3. Cut the other dadoes and rabbets. Once you've cut all of the ¾" wide dadoes, re-set the width of your dado cut to 3/8". As you can see from the illustration of the top corner dado-rabbet joint, the dadoes on the ends of the top (B) are just 3/8" wide by 3/8" deep and 3/8" in from the ends of the top. They are designed to accept the 3/8" by 3/8" rabbets formed on the top ends of the sides (A & O). Mark and cut these dadoes. Next, make the L-shaped rabbet cuts on the tops of the sides (A & O), as shown in the Drawing. Use the same 3/8" wide adjustment on your dado blade to cut them to a depth of 3/8", forming the rabbets. NOTE: Notice that these cuts are on the opposite sides of the side pieces (A & O), from the dadoes you cut previously.
4. Finishing. We recommend that you finish all plywood boards at this time so you can work with them while they lie flat to avoid runs. Here's another tip: Put masking tape on all board ends and on the bottoms of all dadoes where the joints come together. This will give all your glue joints a better bond.
5. Drill shelf bracket holes. We used brown, plastic shelf brackets to support our adjustable shelves. They're readily available at your local hardware stores or home centers like Lowe's. Choose the ones made to fit into 1/4" holes. Mark and drill 1/4" holes, set 2" in from the fronts and backs of the right side (O) and vertical shelf dividers (J & K). Space them at 2" vertical intervals.
6. Glue up the carcase. For this, you'll definitely need the help of an assistant to provide an extra pair of hands while you glue-up all the awkward carcase pieces with yellow woodworker's glue. Before you get started, dry assemble all of the pieces to be certain everything fits together properly. If not, make any necessary adjustments before applying glue to any components. Get all the clamps you'll be needing for the job and go to work. Leave out the adjustable shelves (F, H, M) and the TV shelf (P) during the glue-up. Don't glue on the top (B), yet. Just set it into position on top without any glue for now.
7. Cut the pieces for the face frame. Start by cutting the left side (Q), right side (R), top (S) and bottom (T). Do not cut the narrower, 3/4" molding strips at this time. If possible, use a helper or roller support stand to support the long, 96" pieces as you cut them.
8. Joint the edges. Run the edges of your face frame pieces over the jointer to square them up and smooth them out. This gives a much smoother edge than you can achieve with a table saw alone.